Friday, July 16, 2010

the ten best collections from new york fashion week: fall 2010

1. MARC JACOBS
Serenity now. Leave it to Marc Jacobs to swing the fashion pendulum, orchestrating the season's most striking mood swing. With "Somewhere Over The Rainbow" wafting on the soundtrack, Jacobs led his audience down a most enchanting memory lane. When your repertoire is as rich as his, why borrow from anyone else? Out came Jacobs classics in a soft, dreamy palette of grays, neutrals, and pale pastels: boyfriend cardigans, princess coats, sheer plastic trenches, trompe l'oeil bows, touches of sparkle, and Victorian nightgown dresses fit for the heroine of a modern-day fairytale. Classic and timeless? Yes. Boring? Not a chance.











2. RAG & BONE
Can you rise to the challenge? Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright certainly did with the cool girl army they sent down the runway for fall. Utilitarian vests, parkas, ponchos, and camo-splashed anoraks came artfully layered over plaid shirts, leather leggings, and ultra chunky knits. It was a bold, aggressive mix, but it worked. And whether or not you have the guts to style it with quite as much force, the pieces, when taken apart, stand just as tall and strong on their own. Maybe it's time to join the army after all.















3. PROENZA SCHOULER
Judging by the number of PS1-carrying fashion week attendees (this editor included), Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez needn't worry about the buzz factor surrounding their brand. With that one bag, they've skyrocketed from fashion-insider darlings to the name on everyone's lips. And their stellar fall collection only reinforced the fact that they mean business. It opened with high-waisted graffiti-splashed jeans (part of a new collaboration with J Brand) that had must-have written all over them. From there came rebellious schoolgirl minis paired with peekaboo thigh-high tights, shrunken toggle coats, babydoll dresses in trippy prints, and varsity jackets like you've never seen them before—with purple and blue fur collars. And let's not forget about the accessories: stacked heel platforms to emphasize the leggy look, and a brand new bag. It's called the PS11, and I'm willing to bet the front-rows will be filled with it next season.







4. THAKOON
The weather forecast in Thakoon-ville? Baby, it's cold outside! But boy does Thakoon have you covered. The prince of prints pushed his pretty dresses to the sidelines to try his hand at something totally new. Tis' the season of the statement coat, and he had some of the best, from cropped parkas with fur sleeves to feral fur-hooded jackets. (Real or faux, fur is everywhere this season.) Think Dances with Wolves meets winter wonderland. They had a tough-chic vibe to be sure, but Thakoon married it with his signature romantic edge. The dreamy palette of head-to-toe grays and creams cast a spell.











5. CHRIS BENZ
The theme at Chris Benz? Girl Scouts gone wild. The Seattle-born designer took inspiration from the "bad girls" he went to high school with. The ones whose mothers sent them away to outward bound to clean up their act—or glam it up, as the case may be. Benz's boyish plaid blazers came bedazzled with beaded collars, and his wide-leg cuffed khakis were anything but standard issue. Topped off with neon fur trapper hats and mittens, this clever collection was charming, witty, and chic. Incidentally, the same adjectives could also be used to describe the Chris Benz girl (think free sprits like Eva Amurri and Elettra Rossellini). Looks like she'll be a happy camper come fall.













6. WILLIAM RAST
Justin Timberlake will be the first to tell you that his fashion line "isn't couture," but it sure is cool. His and co-designer Trace Ayala's fall lineup read like a laundry-list of must-haves for the In crowd: army green anoraks, black leather jeans, bomber jackets, shredded and patchwork denim, baggy cargo pants, moto leather vests, shrunken sweatshirts. You get the picture. These clothes aren't for the debutante; they're for rocking the party. And that's something Timberlake knows a little about!
















7. JASON WU
It's no secret that Jason Wu knows a thing or two about designing big night dresses. So now that the twenty-seven-year-old phenom has that area of the market cornered, he's ready to stake his claim on everyday dressing, too. His fall collection cut to the chase with quirky cool sportswear, like a slouchy blue tweed parka with fur-trimmed hood, drop-waist pants, and clean, crisp men's shirting. Of course, Wu is smart enough to know not to abandon his red carpet fans (or a certain Mrs. O) altogether. He offered up plenty of "wow" dresses, including an ivory and gold finale gown modeled by Karlie Kloss that elicited audible oohs and ahhs from the audience.














8. THE ROW
Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen know their customer to a T: discerning eye, loves fashion but isn't beholden to it, pays close attention to the details. In a word? Themselves. Let other designers worry about chasing the trends, the driving force behind the Olsens' luxe line is cool classics that stand the test of time. For fall, they stripped it down to the essentials with a purely black-and-white palette and the kind of beautifully tailored pieces every girl wants in her closet: the perfect t-shirt, chic wide-leg trousers, a slinky black slip dress topped with an easy tuxedo jacket. They also proved you don't have to suffer for the sake of fashion. Each look was paired with flat sandals—easy, effortless, and perfect for the L.A. girl.













9. SUNO
Suno first came on the map for its lively African textiles and fair trade ethos. Happily, the world traveler vibe is still there, but for fall it's laced with a little Pippi Longstocking pep. Hence, flouncy minis, cute little jackets, and tunics layered over capris, all in a madcap mix of fun, colorful prints, from zig zags to diamonds. If you're prone to winter blues, consider this collection just what the doctor ordered. It'll chase them away in a flash.
















10. JASON WU FOR TSE
With his debut collection for TSE, Jason Wu gave the sleepy knitwear house a major wake-up call—not to mention tapping into a whole other side of himself as a designer. Who knew he could do tomboy or prep? The magic, though, was in the mix. Standout looks included a classic tweed men's coat thrown over a gauzy white asymmetrical dress, a red brushstroke-print sweater with grey slouchy pants, and a buttoned-up white oxford paired with a long, skinny blazer and nude chiffon skirt. Opposites attract—and so, it seems, do Jason Wu and TSE.















From: http://www.teenvogue.com/

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